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Wool

Jenny Lee

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General Information

Wool is a natural fiber that is sourced from the coat of animals. It is a keratin-based protein fiber from the fleece of a sheep. It has a thermal, breathable quality with a rough texture. It is soft and comfortable but has low abrasion resistance. It is not strong but pills break off easily. Wool production begins with shearing or the chemical removal of the fleece. It is then washed to remove potassium salts and undergoes an acid bath to remove debris. The lanolin is removed which is reusable and then carded and spun into yarn. This very yarn is then produced into a fabric. When exposed to flame, wool will curl away and burn slowly. However, it will stop burning when the source of the flame is removed. 

 

It naturally has a high level of UV protection, is antistatic, and is naturally stain-resistant which gives for easy maintenance. Gently vacuuming regularly and spot cleaning ensures long-lasting use. However, wool is not resistant to sunlight so it will yellow over time. 

Environmental Impact

Wool fiber is naturally biodegradable and releases nutrients when it decomposes. However, the wool industry is environmentally detrimental. It creates high greenhouse gas emissions due to methane gas from the sheep. High stock numbers of sheep also cause land degradation. The land is also cleared and trees are cut down to make space for grazing sheep. This ultimately causes soil erosion and biodiversity loss. 

Wool is typically good for the indoor environment. It rapidly absorbs common contaminants in the air and will not re-emit them when heated. It can purify indoor air which is especially beneficial for those with asthma. 

Use in Interior Setting

1. Studio AUW incorporated the tactility and warmth of wool in The Wool House pavilion. 

2. This hand-tufted wool rug creates a playful, wavy texture.

3. Craggan Flax is a combination of wool and flax which can create highly textured upholstery. 

4. "The Lips" by Sandra Keja Planken is a bright wall rug that adds a touch of vibrancy to a room.

 

5. Jule Waibel's collection of seats are made of 100% wool felt that are folded to create intricate pleats.  

 

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Area Rug

Woven wool or wool/nylon carpets are valued for their durability and their ability to create large-scale, soil-hiding patterns. Different treatments can be applied to wool area rugs that can improve or add a desired aesthetic such as sheared, pressed, or brushed. Another option is to leave the rug unfinished as a greige good. However, it is important to note that area rugs can pose hazards to disabled people so they must be inset with the surrounding surface to prevent any barriers. Carpeting must pass several tests such as the Radiant Panel Test as Class I or II and the Methenamine Pill Test. 

 

Testing Organizations:

Association for Contract Textileshttps://contracttextiles.org/

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) https://aatcc.org/

New Zealand Wool Testing Authority Laboratory - https://nzwta.co.nz/

Relevant standards through ASTM:

ASTM D4157 - Abrasion Resistance 

ASTM D5034 - Breaking Strength

ASTM D3511 - Brush Pill Test

© 2021 by Jenny Lee, Grace McDonald, Kasey Denis, & Tess Parisi

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